The Orange House Bolt Fund was established in 2003, with two aims:
To maintain existing sport routes and bolt new sport climbs.
Single pitch climbs. The accepted ethic of the Costa Blanca is “sport climbing” protection, which should mean that a fall by the leader after clipping the first bolt is safe and risk of injury is slight.
Multi-pitch climbs. Some routes are sport bolted, while some longer routes are a mix of some bolts and traditional protection maybe required. Some routes are also a mix of “free” and “aid” climbing.
Publicising new routes. Where new routes are being equipped free mini guides are produced.
For every Euro donated at the Orange House Bar, the Orange House matches it, this gives us the purchasing power to buy direct from the factory at the best possible price. FIXE is our prefered equipment manufacturer.
A naming scheme was introduced in 2005, after a donation of greater than €15 we will endeavour to name a new route for you. Please email email@example.com for more info or to make a donation.
Over the last ten years the fund has purchased approximately 3500 bolts and 500 lower offs.
Which have benefitted from the Fund are:
(FA = First Ascent new routes, CM = Crag Maintenace)
Toix sea cliffs (FA & CM)
Toix main cliff (FA & CM)
Echo Valley (FA & CM)
Sella (Wildside, Del Rhino, Water Cave, Morro Carlos, Fallen Block Area & Devino FA & CM)
Mascarat Gorge (CM)
Castellets Ridge (CM)
Areas where activists have recieved bolts and lower offs from the Fund are:
Crag Maintenance: Replacement where old or inappropriate equipment has been used and is or has become unsafe. Replacement of single bolt lower offs, replacement of excessively worn lower offs and bolts, replacement of non stainless steal products in a sea cliff environment, repacement of nylon protection for runners, belays / abseil stations.
Where routes have been either retro-bolted or had bolts replaced the orginal style and feel of the route is kept when safe to do so within the definition of a “sport climb”.
New Routes: The bolting style is that of a sport climb which means: The bolts and lower offs are from a UIAA and EC marked and approved manufacturer.(FIXE)