The Orange House
Into its 15th year and still trying to improve, ran by climbers for climbers……
Accommodation options are ensuite rooms, shared bunkrooms, small twin rooms and camping. Price list click here
Bolt Fund/Development of new areas
Dont be tied to the scheduled dates, tell us when you want a course to run, key word flexibility….
Improve your technique and train your weaknesses! – Rich Mayfield MIA guide and founder of Orange House.
When we’re climbing a hard route and trying with maximum effort, eventually your forearms become “pumped” and your fingers open resulting in a fall. It’s all too easy to think I must get stronger forearms. Don’t think I know a climber who hasn’t fallen into this trap at some point.
Understanding that the things you dislike doing the most are probably the very things that are holding you back. Training what you are good at won’t benefit you anywhere near as much as training one of your weaknesses.
Training antagonist muscle groups.
Antagonist muscles are the opposite muscles to the ones you are using the most. By exercising these you are helping to prevent posture imbalances and problems like shoulder impingements, this also helps to stabilize the joint and prevent unwanted movement.
This doesn’t really give you any real strength gains, but as the antagonist becomes stronger the agonist becomes far more efficient. Giving the impression of a strength gain.
Four limp drive
So you can’t reach the next hand hold, standing up on one leg (hanging one foot in space because you’re so focused on your hands), you let go with one hand to reach it. A powerful and difficult move for sure. You have moved up the rock using one leg and one hand, that’s 50% of what you could have used! Bending your knees to allow both feet to gain some higher foot holds on the rock then standing up with both hands on, hand holds might be below your shoulders at this point, feel for the most balanced position to stand in, then go for the next hand hold. You’ve moved up with 100% of your limps!
Here are two facts:
Stretching makes you weaker.
Strength training makes you less flexible.
Both these statements are true.
No good being the strongest climber you know, if you can’t reach any hold to pull on, or being the bendiest person if you can’t pull from that position.
If you’re training one you need to be doing the other as well.
After a hard indoor session, a redpoint attempt or a hard onsight. Let yourself fully recover, then try waiting another 50%, don’t let impatience injure you or decrease your performance. Most people build these rests into their week by, for example, climbing indoors Tuesdays and Thursday leaving the weekend free to go outside.
But if you’re on a trip to the Costa Blanca for a week no one would want to lose 3 or 4 days to rest out of 7! Try taking active rest days, long easier routes, maybe a via ferrata, ridge or a gorge.
The Bolt Fund
Started in 2003 this fund allows us to maintain routes and develop new areas.
Head on over to the Costa Blanca Climbing site for more details and how to donate…